The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

As Plato said, thousands of years ago "He who hesitates is lost"
Hopefully another one will soon turn up.

As an alternative to a costly strip down try a good quality radiator sealant. Millers good in the uk. Flush the system thoroughly and add product into top of block having removed thermostat. Carefully follow instruction on product. Used it five years ago on a Super Major with grey oil. Problem solve...

In his original question, Jimboe27n says -
"Have used SAE30 engine oil, as far as i can see this is correct?"
I am fully aware of the properties of HD oils and the danger of using them where SAE oils have been used previously.

Was told never to use HD oil after SAE unless engine had been rebuilt. Detergent in HD oils loosens gunge deposited by SAE oils and blocks oilways.

Jack the front wheels up to check for any play on bearings.

When on the road towing heavy trailers always had to change gear on the move. Easy to slide high/low lever to low if you got the speed/revs right. Same with second to first in primary box. Had no alternative and caused no damage.

When re-fueling E27N Paraffin tractors from cans we used a fine funnel which wouldn't let water through. Are they still available. Would diesel get through the gauze?

Seem to remember that the earliest models were fitted with underslung exhausts as standard. When ploughing or undertaking any slow moving operation, with a tail wind, the fumes blew back and led to drivers getting bad headaches,. Took some time to realise what the cause was.

"What temps do you all see when doing light and heavy work? I do think baling brought it to just over 170*F. We may do a patch of sweet corn this year. Plowing might only come close to an hour though. As one shutter is missing I may put some cardboard in front of radiator unless advised not to." In ...

I bought a Super Major from Cheffins sale in Cambridgeshire assuming that they were all live drive. Discovered that mine wasn't. Needed different driving styles when using pick up baler and topper. For baler, to slow down forward movement, accelerate, shut throttle, clutchless change down and opposi...

Are you going to use it on flat or hilly countryside. Farm tracks no problem, you need to be careful on public roads. Used to pull a two wheeled trailer with a four wheeled trailer coupled behind full of sugar beet between farm and rail station (1960's). A journey of five miles on public roads with ...

Dan if you're going to use a topper or anything driven by PTO seriously consider a "Live Drive" Major where the forward motion can be stopped rather than being driven forwards or backwards by the momentum of the implement. Found on a few Majors, more on Power Majors and fitted to most Super Majors. ...

Look at the 'leg' of the clutch pedal under the footplate. It travels up and down in a U shaped bracket. Needs to be free to get to the bottom of the bracket to free the pto clutch.

Are you absolutely sure that there isn't a pin inserted in the frame below the clutch pedal. Pins were inserted to keep the pto live while disengaging the gearbox side of the clutch.

Are you are sure that there is nothing stopping the clutch pedal going the full length of it's travel.

For emergency stop , open, then close throttle, depress clutch and simultaneously pull out of gear. Done it hundreds of times with balers, slashers and mowers.

I'm never really happy seeing a restored tractor "shinier" than when it left the factory.

Did anyone start a diesel major with the handle?

James Graven of Ely and Chatteris were Ford dealers.

JE Registration was Isle of Ely. Did Cambridgeshire Motors (Ford dealers) have a Wisbech or March branch.

Kept the front wheels on when mending punctures, saved my back.

Ploughing on a warm summers night in a Triple D with the front of the Fritzmier cab open. Sparks from the exhaust and the lovely sound of both engines. Wonderful.
Try Brasso on the Fritzmier windscreen.

Looks like a Winsam cab to me. If tractor is only used for topping I would remove it.
Ploughed with Fords in wet and cold. Some open, others fitted with Winsam, Lambourn and Fritzmier (Triple D) cabs. They might be noisy and rattle, you might knock you elbows but any cab was better than none.

Agree with Old Hywel, first place to check is the outlet from the fuel tank. Turn off the tap, disconnect the pipe, turn it back on. It should give a full flow of fuel.

I'd be more concerned about the engine than the clutch or hydraulics. Majors of that age have problems with corrosion of the engine block leading to mixing of oil at the bottom of the cylinder liners. A badly corroded block is difficult to repair and sourcing a good used one is un-likely. Firstly ch...