The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

It appears to be a petrol engined version, but you probably know that already. A fairly early model too.
Remarkably good tinwork compared to anything that age here.

I’ve had a generator for some time. It was a standby unit on a local dairy farm for many years, little used since they were connected to a major supply line which rarely failed. As the farm’s power use increased, the 10Kva unit was soon outclassed and it stood idle. Eventually it was moved out, and ...

Well done on the repairs, from Old South Wales.
Interesting to hear of your International digger. Mine is a 3434 with Wain Roy arm. After being left idle for several years, it’s back operational again. Biggest expense was over £1000 for hoses.

While digging in the darkest depths of the shed I’ve come across two linkage drawbars. I think I know which is which, but would like confirmation.
One is a 9 hole, the other 11. Category one.

Why bother? The starter shown appears to be a geared model, giving much improved cranking speeds, and easier starting.
You’re missing bits anyway, and original isn’t always better.

Rather than replace the injection pump, there’s probably some type of metal filler available to build up the square drive. Make sure that neither cable nor instrument are seized before refitting. When the tacho stopped working on a Super Major, I jammed small slivers of wood around the worn square a...

So it is a Dexta part ! Not seen one for at least 50 years.

The mystery item with chain is used to hold down the hydraulic control lever when the linkage drawbar is in use, to prevent accidental raising of the linkage.
It may be a Dexta part, or possibly Fergy.

The website quotes other models from €650 to €1350, plus VAT

If you have tyre rub with stabiliser bars fitted, (one each side?) something is wrong.
Either lots of wear in the bars or possibly the implement pins are fitted outside their brackets, rather than inwards.

Recent post on YouTube:
‘Ford 6610 Powerstar Repower’

If air is entering the plastic filter, it suggests a restriction in the tank tap/filter/primer. The tap assembly won’t unscrew without lifting the tank, but any blockage there must be dealt with to ensure a reliable supply of fuel.

You don’t need to spin the engine to bleed it. Merely slacken the bleeder on the injection pump and use lift pump till bubbles stop.
I’ve never needed to loosen injector pipe on a Simms pump.

Three feet?

Canvas hoods on Land Rovers aren’t what they were, with reports of new ones only lasting a few years. Some blame regulations banning certain preservatives.

A family member (mechanic) who specialises in Ford/NH is ‘pretty sure’ the 7740 engine would fit.

The tops of those rods will need a good clean and polish before installing new seals, or damage is inevitable. Also there’ll probably be a lip formed below the pin hole which will need removing. If entrusting the work to a specialist hydraulic repairer beware of mission creep. I recently took a leak...

Some good points above.
There’s a chance of water sitting in engine sump, gearbox, back end. Carefully slacken each drain plug, any water will drain off first.

Don’t use the full width of cut, vary it to suit conditions.

Depends on the crop.
For a heavy cut of hay, probably not. For topping pasture or cutting thistles, ok.

Yes.

It sounds as though your two-stage clutch isn’t functioning correctly. Possibly out of adjustment, or the PTO plates could be stuck or rusted. Do you push the pedal right down when engaging the PTO?

Old 20 Parts list folding bar for Major.
Strange note about not suitable for steering brakes.

1/2” breather listed by Railswood Tractors.
£30.

When ditching with the Power Arm, it’s common to use the boom to repeatedly push the outfit forward into a new position as work progresses. Occasionally, if the tractor doesn’t move easily, the forces involved can cause the linkage (and the whole machine) to move upwards. This isn’t a problem with o...