Pictures with questions

[leeroy]

Is the shaft suppose to stay in the front of the tractor? Once the hydraulic pump has been removed--please advise on how to remove or if it suppose to stay how does it stay attached to the pulley. Right now it free floats.
Are the holes in the bell housing an issue? If so--please advise
This is the fuel filter housing that has been bypassed for many years. It has some rust in it. Can it be cleaned up or should I try to find a new base?

Pictures below
Thanks--Leeroy

[Brian]

Shaft needs detaching from the front pulley.

Holes need some small plastic or wooden plugs.

Fuel filter needs a clean and new filter.

[leeroy]

Thanks Brian,
Just to be clear the shaft is not attached to the pulley but I cannot see how the square end comes off the shaft so it can be slid out front of tractor? It appears to me it was only held in place by the pump when it was mounted. I've also noticed the pulley can slide forward with little effort,as if the belt was not on it it could be pulled out?.
I will plug those holes-where would any rain have gone into bell housing? That oil has been contaminated with water and will be changed .
Leeroy

[Dandy Dave]

An educated guess on the pump shaft. There may be a solid pin holding it that has rusted to the point that it looks like part of the shaft. The only way to tell is to heat it with a torch in several spots near the center of the square. The pin will heat faster than the square and be visible. Of course, the end may just be rusted on it also. It went together when new. So it has to come apart. If the pulley is moving in and out on the crank, it could be that the front bolt was removed to make room for the loader pump drive. The part that is bolted to the pulley with three bolts should be removed as it is part of the loader drive, and then, you should be able to see if there is a bolt holding the pulley.

Another thought before you remove the drive, Even if you do not want the loader, you could use the pump, a resevoir tank, a few hoses, and a DAR (Double Acting Ram) valve to run anything with a double acting cylinder, or more than one hydraulic valve, (like the two the loader should already have,) which would be a plus and make the tractor more useful with modern equipment. I question why you do not want the loader. Loaders are very useful, unless you already have a machine with a loader. Dandy Dave!

[leeroy]

Hi Dave ,
Thanks I will look closer today and report any findings!
As far as keeping the loader-luckily we have a 2120 with a loader and backhoe.
Plus you could barely see her under that loader frame!
Reagrds,Lee

[Dandy Dave]

OK, So you just want the old Fordson for fun. Another thought. I cannot tell by the photo, but the square may also be threaded on the end of the shaft. If it is, the threads will be left handed. I've run into similar situations with Lord loaders on 9N, 2N, and Ford 8N, tractors in the past. That square drive is a very old design, and was changed to a spline in most applications early on. Most likely it was redesigned for the problem that you are having now. Dandy Dave!

[leeroy]

Hmm,left handed threads,maybe I'll get the set of vice grips off the 9n too!
The Major will be fun but will have to bale and rake in the summer and skid/haul logs and firewood in the winter! Not looking good for this winter though. I'd like to put a Farmi winch on it. Has anyone had any time with Farmi or any other brand?

[BearCreek Majors]

Leeroy, I agree with the guys about not wanting to destroy the shaft in the event that it can be reused….but at some point you may want to save yourself the frustration and just wack it off! Id suggests getting in there with a sawsall rather than taking a chance burning it to the ground with a torch, (although I believe you lower radiator hose is rated for 250 deg. F) and it’s easier to weld it back together if needed. As Dave mentioned, remove the hub on the crank pulley and see if it needs the bolt tightened or replaced.

If you wanted to get fancy with the bellhousing holes you could run a tap in them and install some short bolts.

I wouldn’t rush out and have the radiator recored, there are several good radiator flushing products available to clean it out after the head gasket is replaced. I vaguely remember a thread with some homemade remedies, one of them may have been dish soap and a lot of rinsing afterwards.

We’ll keep our fingers crossed that a new head gasket stops the coolant in the oil problem!

The fuel filter canister is fine, As Brian said, clean it up and put in a new filter. A little cleaning with a wire brush, scotchbrite, etc would be fine, the rusty areas are on the dirty side of the filter anyway. Make sure the ports in the upper housing are clean, no mud dabber nests in them.

Pat

[leeroy]

Thanks for advice ! Tapping the bell housing- no worries for metal from tapping dropping in? I'm no mechanic so bear with me.
As far as the radiator: It was leaking coolant in addition to having oil in coolant so I still need to recore, right? Or does the flushing products also seal any leaks?..again please bear with me!
What should I order for minimum head gasket job and any Stateside reccomendations ?

[BearCreek Majors]

The only concern I would have from tapping the bellhousing holes would be plugging up the weep hole in the bottom of the bellhousing. But the more I think about it I like Brian’s suggestion to use wood plugs, they can be hammered in or ground flush to make them virtually undetectable if one was to paint it.

If anything a good flushing of the radiator will only make it leak worse. Look it over good to see why it is leaking, did it get poked with something, did it get hit by the fan blade, or is it just old and rotten. Many a radiator has been saved with a little soldering and/or stopleak.

Yes you may want a good mechanic to do the majority of the work for you, foolish mistakes can end up costing a lot of money. Just setting the head face down on a bench can ruin the injectors. The guys here on FTP are a world of help but if you have never been inside an engine before you should be looking for someone with some experience to lend a hand.

You shouldn’t need more than a top end/valve grind gasket set. Replace the thermostat while you’re in there. As Pavel mentioned have the head checked and a valve job really should be done if your wallet can afford it. The injectors are removed with the head on, so you can work on them later as the wallet can afford.

Pat

[leeroy]

The bolt holding the pulley is not there.New Holland parts calls it a ratchet? If it is a bolt and washer does anyone have the specs on said bolt?
Thanks,Leeroy

[BearCreek Majors]

They call it that because the hand crank engages into it. Unless you come across a used one or plan on hand cranking it I’d just use a standard fine thread bolt. Not sure of the size but if you need it I can dig around this weekend and find one to measure.
Pat


http://www.ebay.com/itm/fordson-power-s ... 19cc0266e7

[leeroy]

Thanks for clearing that up Pat! If you happen to find one to measure without too much trouble I'd appreciate it.
Thanks,Lee

[leeroy]

Is that washer a BIG washer? Got my shutters to work but I'll still need one missing shutter,and the handle and rod for it. Are there many tractors with shutters? I've seen them on big trucks but not on any tractors.I was impressed when I noticed them.
Can't find timing marks on pulley either.
Have not left the house to get Bars leaks yet!

[leeroy]

I think the pulley I have is for the power steering option although there are no signs of it ever having it.In the parts book it does show a large washer with a standard bolt not a ratchet bolt.
Do I need special fasteners here or can I stack a small washer onto a larger one?
I should have taken pictures when radiator was off but did not.
Edit: same part # for either washer with or with out power steering