Page 1 of 1

Brakes

Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 7:13 pm
by curtsat15
More questions again. The brakes on my '59 PM are not working. Never have since we got it. I was under it yesterday and took some pics. I think the first problem is that the cables are seized after the grease nipple. Any ideas on how to free them up without wrecking them? If and when I get this done, how do I adjust them? I have seen in the manual that the adjuster is behind a small slot. Is there a special tool for this, or do I need to disassemble to adjust? Thanks.
Image
Image
Image

Re: Brakes

Posted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 4:52 am
by super6954
Hi

To be honest I would get the wheels off( hopefully its not fluid filled wheels or wheel weighted too :cry: ) and take the Brakes apart right from the get go :wink: . then you will know it is all good or whats bad and go from there.
Most of the tractors i have done in Manitoba have issues like oil contamination, seized cables/ adjusters , damaged cables, or just plain worn shoes and drums or botched parts like springs and stuff, where the shop monkeys have played with them and should of just kept out as they had no clue what they where doing :run: :stress: :lol: .
With it being brakes you need to know for sure as it is yours and anybody within 300fts safety if its not right :!: .

The adjusting slot is at 3 o clock in your second picture you only need a large flat blade screw driver to flick the adjuster round,Also with this it will make more sense with how it works if you take it all apart and go through the system.
This is Probably not the answer you wanted to hear but from my experience its the best way to go with them not working at all and stuck cables :)
Regards Robert

Re: Brakes

Posted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 1:01 pm
by Dandy Dave
I went though the brakes in my Power Major before I painted it and am glad that I did. I had the shoes relined locally as it was much cheaper than buying them and installed new springs in it all the way around. My cables were good. I freed up the adjusters and neversiezed the heck out of them. Still stops like it should although I should adjust them as the high spots have worn off of the shoes and the peddle is a little low. Too many hills around here, and ditches to dump over in, to go without brakes. Dandy Dave!

Re: Brakes

Posted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 1:30 pm
by Gman
Hello to all. I need to also go into my brakes but just too many projects ahead of that but I also work on hills so have always had to be careful. My Power Major has always had decent brakes going forward but nothing in reverse, when backing down a hill I have to be real careful, usually back down hill only if I have box blade on so I can drop it to stop. Would there be any adjustment that may correct this since she stops going forward?
Thanks

Re: Brakes

Posted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 5:34 pm
by Ian
When I rebuilt the breaks on my power major, I found the same.
Going forward you can make the wheels lock up, but in reverse .. virtually nothing.
Probably should point out the breaks are probably asbestos.

Re: Brakes

Posted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 6:07 pm
by henk
I had some brake issues, but found out the large nut on the inside of the fenders was loose. Then the problem was salved.
I should go for a complete check. When the drum will not come of, loosen the shoes with the screwdriver through the slot. Remove the cables and lay them in diesel or something that will get them going before trying to move them.
It’s an easy job, but take care of the asbestos.

Re: Brakes

Posted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 8:31 pm
by curtsat15
I really do not want to pull the wheels. The tires are fluid filled and the wheels have wheel weights on them. I will see if I ca get the cables free and go from there I guess. Thanks guys!

Re: Brakes

Posted: Sat Aug 04, 2012 12:55 am
by Dandy Dave
The trick to wheels that are loaded is to not lay them on the ground, but lean them upright against a tree or barn wall... And if they fall over, have a loader tractor to pick them back up. :wink: Dandy Dave!

Re: Brakes

Posted: Sat Aug 04, 2012 2:09 am
by curtsat15
Yup, found that out with my 2N!

Re: Brakes

Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2012 7:38 pm
by super6954
curtsat15 wrote:I really do not want to pull the wheels. The tires are fluid filled and the wheels have wheel weights on them. I will see if I ca get the cables free and go from there I guess. Thanks guys!
Hi
you might struggle freeing the cables because you can pull the brake on with the foot pedal but you cant get the cable to come back to let the break off without the risk of wrecking the cable as you only have about an inch before it goes in the back plate to grab hold of if you can get on it at all there :wink: .

Do you have any friends who have a tractor and loader that has a proper 2 prong bale fork or pallet tines on or even a fork lift :?: . when I do these wheels i jack and support the tractor then slide the tines or forks under the bottom of the wheel then use the loader to remove the wheel. you also need a very skilled operator on the loader to line things up to go back on :wink:. Ive been doing them like that for about 20 years on bigger tractors.
Regards Robert

Re: Brakes

Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2012 8:36 pm
by Gman
henk wrote:I had some brake issues, but found out the large nut on the inside of the fenders was loose. Then the problem was salved.
I should go for a complete check. When the drum will not come of, loosen the shoes with the screwdriver through the slot. Remove the cables and lay them in diesel or something that will get them going before trying to move them.
It’s an easy job, but take care of the asbestos.
Hi Henk, as to the large nut being tightened, can this be done without going into the brakes? Can I just put a wrench on the nut and tighten it without using another wrench on the other end? :scratchhead:
Thanks

Re: Brakes

Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2012 8:18 am
by henk
Yes you can.