The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

I'm about to undertake an overhaul on my "new" FMD. Bought her at an auction, cheap. Some oil in radiator, pulled the head & found a crack on the top of the #4 sleeve, plus both pushrods in #4 bent. My question is, how tight are sleeves in the FMD? I just spent 4 days building a puller ( several times, each time beefier than last) to pull the dry sleeves out of a Farmall H. Is there tricks I should know about the FMD sleeves? Thanks!

Here is a picture of my sleeve puller if it helps You.

And on this picture the puller is reversed to pull in the new sleeves.

Inspect carefylly the grooves for the lower sleeve seals with a mirror. It can have deep corroded spots that allows the water to pass by to the olipan. It is one of the most typical problems with Majors.

My sleeve puller is exactly the same as Grani's but they have one disadvantage. You really need to remove the crank to get the puller disc in place. Also make sure that there is enough clearance to allow it to pass through the block.

The side legs should not be screwed into the cylinder head retaining stud holes though, as shown in Grani's picture. This can damage the threads if the sleeve is tight. It is best to make a foot on the stud that spreads the load over a greater area.

Grani,
Brian has said that he repairs corroded o-ring grooves with Belzona molecular metal. How did you fix yours?

Grani's ring groove is in good condition! The ones we had to repair had no top surface most of the way round.

JC wrote:Grani,
Brian has said that he repairs corroded o-ring grooves with Belzona molecular metal. How did you fix yours?

I use chemical metal (a Plastic Padding product) and put tar on afterwards to prevent further corrosion.
Here is a link to a Swedish forum where I have put my own story of my boat engine repair. All is written in Swedish but the pictures looks the same.
http://fordson.se/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=5197

Brian wrote:My sleeve puller is exactly the same as Grani's but they have one disadvantage. You really need to remove the crank to get the puller disc in place. Also make sure that there is enough clearance to allow it to pass through the block.

The side legs should not be screwed into the cylinder head retaining stud holes though, as shown in Grani's picture. This can damage the threads if the sleeve is tight. It is best to make a foot on the stud that spreads the load over a greater area.

Mine don´t need crank removed. Yes thats true that the treads is in danger if the sleeves are tight but mine came out quiet easy.

Grani,

It's great that you posted so much detailed pictures!!
Thank you