Topless Dexta!

Bill Cox · Post by **Bill Cox** » Wed Jul 15, 2009 3:32 pm

Ben,

I removed it from the lift cover and changed the O ring that was leaking. I did not do any further disassembly.

As you may recall, I addressed the control rod issue in another post titled "Leaking O Ring". The rod on my machine is missing. I just looked at the photos I posted and you can see where the rod is broken off at the turnbuckle. There is also a "stub" of the rod remaining on the flow control mechanism. The pin is still in place holding the stub.

Because I am not currently trying to restore the tractor to like new condition, and based on Brian's information that I will be able to use the machine just fine without the rod, my plan is to remove the turnbuckle and stub, and operate without the rod. Maybe some day if I can make or acquire a new or used rod I will install it.

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Tue Jul 28, 2009 9:58 pm

Hi Bill,
How is the reassembly going?
Look forward to some more excellent pics

Ben

Bill Cox · Post by **Bill Cox** » Fri Jul 31, 2009 9:08 pm

Sorry for the long delay but I have had too much going on.

Unfortunately, the day I reassembled the lift and remounted it on the tractor I did not have access to a camera. But truthfully, there wasn't much to photograph. Everything looked like it did in the disassembly photos, only cleaner.

The lift is working as it should. However, after about an hour, I got another oil leak from the auxiliary service valve chest. It's leaking under the "flow control valve lever".

There is an exploded view of the assembly and step-by-step instructions for disassembly on pages 47-48 in the June 1961service manual supplement. Reviewing that information and the parts manual, it appears that there is an O ring seal under the lever. I am going to take a look at it as soon as I have time.

Sorry for the absence of reassembly photos. If I have a camera available I'll try to take some shots of my next project.

Raymondc71 · Post by **Raymondc71** » Tue Jan 12, 2010 9:52 pm

hello i also removed them bolts which holds the pump on..on your picture before the pistion..the acuating lever and the small pistion like object..what holds that piston like object IN the control valve??is it the lip on the cylinder like thing on the control valve itself,,,when mine fell the small like pistion thing as i call it fell out of the cylinder,,im just wondering does that sit freely in the cylinder as is it can move up and down it....or is it fixed it the very top of it?? thanks..did you ajust your lift yet??

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Tue Jan 12, 2010 11:18 pm

Hi Raymond,
Do they teach grammar in Irish schools? Or maybe English isn't your first language?

If your English was a bit more intelligible, folk might find it easier to help you! I suggest you get someone to check your posts through before you 'press the button'.
If I may offer more specific help, have you read the workshop manual downloadable from Stefan's fordson-dexta.de site? The dexta parts list is also available on Stefan's site. This may help you identify the various hydraulic components.
All the best,

Nisse · Post by **Nisse** » Thu Jan 14, 2010 12:37 am

I jump in with another question. As I have the piston on the workbench at the moment, I wonder if you would rather put the lipseal or the O-ring? When I dismantled it, there was a lipseal mounted, so I reinstalled the new one from the kit. But that can still be changed. I guess there is some reason why ford decided to change? I have the leather / O-ring type in my kit

Nils

Post by **Brian** » Thu Jan 14, 2010 8:20 am

Lip seal!

The "O" rings fit in a different groove size. They are used with a '000nd series tractors.

jambug123 · Post by **jambug123** » Thu Jan 14, 2010 9:26 am

i obtained a o ring kit from sparex and it included both types of seals, o ring and backup washer and the lip seal so i fitted the lip seal.
replace like for like thats the only way it should be done if you want to fit the oring and backup washer get the proper piston for it to work properly.

i am also checking some other parts i obtained which is the plunger and yoke when i have the time to reset my linkage

Regards
James

Nisse · Post by **Nisse** » Thu Jan 14, 2010 1:13 pm

That's less work for me. I will listen to your advices and leave it with the lip seal

Just for the record. The leather ring is installed on the rod side of the groove I suppose? And the O-ring pointing towards the rear of the piston?

jambug123 · Post by **jambug123** » Thu Jan 14, 2010 3:51 pm

the leather washer goes on first then the oring with it sat on a bench with the crown up.

Regards
James

Post by **Brian** » Thu Jan 14, 2010 6:53 pm

Another way to put it, the leather (or split plastic) ring is the backing ring, the "O" ring goes to the oil pressure.

Raymondc71 · Post by **Raymondc71** » Thu Jan 14, 2010 8:34 pm

I have spent 3 hours trying to remove the yoke on the main spring and plunger!!! I used a gas cylinder with a torch attached..for heating the yoke!! I used oil to help loosen the yoke! but its not budging only for a slight turn!!!! when i go to turn the yoke the main spring turns too..Would it be easier to remove it when the lift is off??

Post by **Brian** » Thu Jan 14, 2010 9:36 pm

You have a hard job holding the lift to apply any turning power if you have it off. Get the turnbuckle glowing red, then tap round it with two hammers opposite each other , then try to turn it.

Don't cool it, that does no good, it needs to be kept red hot.

Raymondc71 · Post by **Raymondc71** » Thu Jan 14, 2010 9:49 pm

I wiil try that.! sounds like a very good idea! thanks Brian..Have you ever been to Ireland?

Nisse · Post by **Nisse** » Thu Jan 14, 2010 10:28 pm

I just screwed mine off today

But that's maybe not what you wanted to hear. Amazing as I think this traktor was never ever used only in the forest, so 99% position control.
Sadly the spring seat was broken. And I am pretty sure that the nut on the spare parts dexta sits like hell. Well, I will have to make one on the lathe if I can't get the other one off

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Wurth-Rost-Off-Ic ... 0004r37011

That spray was highly recommended to me by several friends that struggle with rusted nuts every day. Maybe you test it and report here.

Nils

Raymondc71 · Post by **Raymondc71** » Thu Jan 14, 2010 10:52 pm

I will get it if i cant get it of by the weekend!

Did you use much heat?
What sort of bar did you use on the turnbuckle?
cheers

Nisse · Post by **Nisse** » Thu Jan 14, 2010 11:05 pm

Raymondc71 wrote:I will get it if i cant get it of by the weekend!
Did you use much heat?
What sort of bar did you use on the turnbuckle?
cheers

No heat at all. Just a standard 1/2 inch extension (20cm long maybe) and not much force. I had it soaked in some rust off stuff during a week though. I did not try before, but the thread was not rusty at all, so I guess I was just lucky.
The air is quite dry here in northern sweden, no salt on the roads so certainly better conditions than Ireland already from the beginning.

Nils

Post by **Brian** » Fri Jan 15, 2010 8:08 am

Bill, Yes.

jambug123 · Post by **jambug123** » Fri Jan 15, 2010 6:11 pm

has any one at the moment got the plunger removed from the hydraulic top, i would like a measurement of it length, width as i have got a new one from a differant tractor that looks the same.

Regards
James

Raymondc71 · Post by **Raymondc71** » Fri Jan 15, 2010 10:23 pm

Nearly have the yoke off!! spent the last couple of hours with heat and a bar..its still very stiff! Because its so far off the plunger keeps moving up

i might have to make a bracket to hold it down..Very awkawd! Any TIPS??might wait till i have the whole lift off and get a big bar at it![/b]

Nisse · Post by **Nisse** » Fri Jan 15, 2010 10:56 pm

jambug123 wrote:has any one at the moment got the plunger removed from the hydraulic top, i would like a measurement of it length, width as i have got a new one from a differant tractor that looks the same.

Regards
James

I have the whole top in pieces. What part do you need? Item number in the spare parts list would be easiest to understand

I tried to press out the shaft today. At the beginning that worked fine, but then suddenly it stopped when the bushing was about 80% out. I tried to press it back the other way, taking care that it was aligned with the splines. That worked fine until almots the original position. Now I can apply 25 tons either way and nothing moves

Heat made no difference.

Shall I take the 100ton press or does anyone have another suggestion?

I realized to late that I should not dismantle everything *sigh*

Nils

jambug123 · Post by **jambug123** » Fri Jan 15, 2010 11:10 pm

in the parts book it is listed as 957E-541 shaft AKa Plunger, the part the yoke screws onto.

Regards
James

Nisse · Post by **Nisse** » Fri Jan 15, 2010 11:59 pm

jambug123 wrote:in the parts book it is listed as 957E-541 shaft AKa Plunger, the part the yoke screws onto.

Regards
James

Ok, I will try to post them tomorrow

Nisse · Post by **Nisse** » Wed Jan 27, 2010 7:52 am

Ok, I will try to post them tomorrow

That was a damn long night

That's centimeters. Any other dimensions you need[/quote]

jambug123 · Post by **jambug123** » Wed Jan 27, 2010 9:08 am

could you possibly get the diamiter of the plunger aswell,

Regards
James

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