Fuel return line leaking

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Fri Oct 14, 2011 6:39 pm

After I had got my dextas engine running after I had done a partial rebuild, it started chucking what i thought was oil out the exhaust, turns out it wasnt. Infact, the return line to the tank was blocked, so it was putting too much diesel in, and that was what was coming out. So i cleared the blockage, and was fine, but now after ive steam cleaned the tractor off, there is a rusty patch on the return line between the injectors 1 and 2.
Can you buy these pipes?

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Fri Oct 14, 2011 11:52 pm

Nick wrote:..now after ive steam cleaned the tractor off, there is a rusty patch on the return line between the injectors 1 and 2. Can you buy these pipes?

That seems to be just about the only fuel pipe Agriline don't list on their website. I got a 2nd hand one from Malcolm Hipperson. Failing that guess you could always make one.

russelm · Post by **russelm** » Sat Oct 15, 2011 8:09 pm

Mine was the same so I repaired it using some car brake pipe and the trusty plumbing kit:

Before:

After:

Once soldered up it polished up very well

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Sat Oct 15, 2011 8:25 pm

excellent work! i take it that the pipe is 3/16? might have a go at that!

russelm · Post by **russelm** » Sat Oct 15, 2011 9:07 pm

Yes, standard 3/16 stuff (approx 4.8mm in modern money)

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Mon Oct 17, 2011 9:31 pm

russelm wrote:

Is it possible to solder up a hole like this, on a low pressure pipe?

tom lad · Post by **tom lad** » Tue Oct 18, 2011 8:50 am

i tink yes u can , prob braze tho ,
as long as u got the metal clean enough first , the prob. tho is going to be not melting the original joint which looks like solder , and has a low melting point

the welding tutor at college loved a chalenge like that ,

i suppose if leeking anyhow then youv'e nothing to loose

being spotlessly clean is important for a gd solder / braze jiont u want it to take first time .

the other obvious big point is not welding up the hole in the pipe , which will be quite easy to do !!!!!!!

some of the epoxy putty things you can buy now are quite good , but sealing a fuel pipe is difficult .

russelm · Post by **russelm** » Tue Oct 18, 2011 12:41 pm

A braze or weld would do the job.

If its the leak off pipe as above Ben then let me know and I will see if I can sort something for you.

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Tue Oct 18, 2011 3:12 pm

Hi,
Its the vacuum pipe where it goes onto the manifold.

Mark, many thanks for the offer of help - however my friend Larry says he can repair it before he paints it along with my other bits.

Can anyone recommend a useable cheap/basic pipe bender?

russelm · Post by **russelm** » Fri Oct 21, 2011 8:48 pm

Blimey, thats pretty bad Ben, that one goes through quite a tortourous route around the rear of the head to.

I have a few pipe benders but use one like this for the smaller pipes and brake pipes:

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Fri Oct 21, 2011 9:48 pm

Mark, Do you know where I can get a bender like yours above?

russelm · Post by **russelm** » Sat Oct 22, 2011 4:00 pm

Hi Ben, I got mine off ebay from here:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PIPE-BENDER-6 ... 5d27414fdb

Does the job for the copper and basic steel pipes i use it for.

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Sat Oct 22, 2011 6:58 pm

Mark, Will it bend 3/16" pipes also?
I think most of the Dexta pipes are that size.
TIA

Jerry Coles · Post by **Jerry Coles** » Sat Oct 22, 2011 9:30 pm

3/16" = 4.7mm approx so that pipe bender will handle 6, 8 and 10mm pipe.
That means if you use the smallest groove (6mm) your 4.7mm pipe will not lay tight up against the walls which prevent the tube from flattening.
What you may then get is an oval shape where the pipe tries to flatten out to 6mm to force against the walls.
The result may look OK but could cause problems when fitting into the ends if they are close to the bend.
Maybe at that point you will still have the original roundness so you may well get away with it.
At that bender price it seems worth trying it.
The very old method would be to fill the pipe with fine sand or solder which will prevent the pipe flattening when being bent.
But then do you want sand in your pipes?
Solder will melt out with a blowlamp once bent.
My pennyworth.
Jerry
Bath
UK

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Sat Oct 22, 2011 10:19 pm

Jerry,
Yes that's what I was wondering. This one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/COPPER-FUEL-B ... 4cfb157a29,
"COPPER FUEL, BRAKE & CENTRAL HEATING PIPE BENDER" 6mm, 8mm, 10mm & 3/16"
claims to do 3/16" also though not clear how.

russelm · Post by **russelm** » Mon Oct 24, 2011 1:41 pm

Bensdexta wrote:Mark, Will it bend 3/16" pipes also?
I think most of the Dexta pipes are that size.
TIA

Hi Ben

I aheva different one for brake pipes etc, a bit like this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAKE-PIPE-BE ... 4aaf987efe

Mines a bit older than that one! but is much the same

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Mon Oct 24, 2011 6:54 pm

russelm wrote:I have a different one for brake pipes etc, a bit like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAKE-PIPE-BE ... 4aaf987efe
Mine's a bit older than that one! but is much the same

Ah! Ha! That one looks like it would do all the fuel pipes on a Dexta. May be that's the boy?

Bensdexta · Post by **Bensdexta** » Sun Jan 08, 2012 9:27 pm

See http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/phpbb ... f=3&t=3742

The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

Fuel return line leaking

Fuel return line leaking

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Fuel pipes and olives