gearbox seals
gearbox seals
I have a 1965 new improved super Dexta which has a bad oil leak from bell housing , I have removed the 5 bolts around the sleeve that the clutch thrust bearing slides on , but it just wont move do I have to remove the other plate in the bell house to remove the whole lot to access the seals . also I may require to replace the piston liners ,Have seen semi finished liners advertised, do these require to be bored out ,or just honed out after fitting . look forward for advise.
Re: gearbox seals
Super Dexta tractors ceased production in June 1964, the 000nd Series that were introduced in late 1964 early 1965 were a totally different tractor even though the same names were used, Dexta = Dexta 2000, Super Dexta = Super Dexta 3000, Major = Major 4000 and Super Major = Super Major 5000. Very confusing!
To answer your question, The seal housing is only held in by the bolts around it, you do not need to remove the front gearbox plate. Make sure you have all the bolts out then tap the housing with a rubber or copper hammer.
The other area for an oil leak in the clutch housing is the seal between the transmission shaft and the PTO shaft into the gearbox.
Regarding the liners, you may find that you need to have the block modified as some replacement liners have a ridge around the top to hold them in place. Originally the liners were pressed into the block and then bored to size.
I would try working the tractor for eight to ten hours very hard before making a decission on whether I needed to go into the engine. You will need to do the crank as well as the liners and pistons if she is worn.

To answer your question, The seal housing is only held in by the bolts around it, you do not need to remove the front gearbox plate. Make sure you have all the bolts out then tap the housing with a rubber or copper hammer.
The other area for an oil leak in the clutch housing is the seal between the transmission shaft and the PTO shaft into the gearbox.
Regarding the liners, you may find that you need to have the block modified as some replacement liners have a ridge around the top to hold them in place. Originally the liners were pressed into the block and then bored to size.
I would try working the tractor for eight to ten hours very hard before making a decission on whether I needed to go into the engine. You will need to do the crank as well as the liners and pistons if she is worn.
Fordson Tractor Pages, now officially linked to: Fordson Tractor Club of Australia, Ford and Fordson Association and Blue Force.
Brian
Brian
Re: gearbox seals
thanks for the info , will have another go at removing the seal housing, I did see in a manual that both seal housing on dexta with live pto drive and the other should come of I did it a fair smack or two which never shifted it looks as if I will have to persevere.
Re: gearbox seals
Are you sure you have the correct manual? Is your tractor a 2000, or a 3000?mar10loch wrote:thanks for the info , will have another go at removing the seal housing, I did see in a manual that both seal housing on dexta with live pto drive and the other should come of I did it a fair smack or two which never shifted it looks as if I will have to persevere.

Bensdexta - 1961 working for a living!
Re: gearbox seals
Yes Got both CD and paper manuals my tractor is not a 2 0r 3000 My super dexta was probably made in 64 and registered in 65 has a dual clutch light grey wings and grill with silver super dexta badge across front nose cone, and as far as know this was called the new improved dextaBensdexta wrote:Are you sure you have the correct manual? Is your tractor a 2000, or a 3000?mar10loch wrote:thanks for the info , will have another go at removing the seal housing, I did see in a manual that both seal housing on dexta with live pto drive and the other should come of I did it a fair smack or two which never shifted it looks as if I will have to persevere.