The Fordson Tractor Pages Forum

Since i got my steering sorted out i thought id tow the dexta to the pressure washer to clean off all the years of crap, then try and free the stuck clutch.
Nothing here is ever easy, firstly one of the wheels on the pressure washer fell off, so had to fix that, then found the hose pipe had a hole in it, so i fixed that. Then i saw that the end of the hosepipe had been chewed by a cow, so i fixed that.
THEN found the pressure washer had no diesel in its tank, THEN found that the big diesel tank had run out too, so i had to syphon some out of one of the tractors.

Anyway, ive washed it off and it came up quite nicely, then decided to go for a drive on it, i.e, start it in gear and see if would free on its own (i dont know if its worn or just rusted to the flywheel). It didnt free off, but should i of been trying to stall it with the brakes on or something?

Also if i have to split it, i understand that its a pain to get back together, any advice?

Also i just want confirm that its definetly a live drive version, it does have the two holes in the clutch rod where it goes into the bell housing.

Nick wrote:Also if i have to split it, i understand that its a pain to get back together, any advice?

I got mine together no problem, and I'm a newby, see http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/phpbb ... 42&p=14767
If you've got an engine crane & leveling beam it's straighforward. I wouldn't like to try it without them as there's a fair chance I would damage something. Engine cranes can be bought for ~£100 or hired.
Go for it

I have a car which is very prone to a stuck clutch. It's a 1930's design front wheel drive and when I got it a small cover was off the bell housing, so the rain would get in (the gearbox faces forward behind the grill). I did have it stored about 20km from home and when I went to move it home a few years back the clutch was stuck. Anyway, I needed to move it so drove it home like that. Nothing I did on the way home would free the clutch, and I tried all sorts. So I spoke to the guru on the cars and he said do the following.

Jack one of the driven wheels off the ground.
Start the car in second gear.
Running at about 1/3 to 1/2 revs pulse the brake pedal firmly.

It was free after just 2 or 3 applications of the brake. No idea why that worked when driving with the clutch in did not.

Now a word of warning. 1 driven wheel is still on the ground, so be very carefull. Chock the wheels, and a diff lock is a no no. Be very carefull to stop it falling off the jack while running, and be in the seat at all times when the engine is running.

Hello Nick. I,d alvays make repair on clutches with tractor on wheel,s -first I set one fast steeljac under the transmission (adjusted for normalhighes) then I use a truck jack with wheels on for the front end, (just under the motor, for sliding front end forward in same level) this is also importen becouse it seems that you have the double clutch with all that,s prob,s... But when you after disambled all parts and is redy for asembling again you have a very importen measurejob for adjust your overhauled pto and clutchdisk,s and levers to your clutchbearing. this job have to be done exact only for the double clutch. -(The single clutch is easyer to adjust only from outsaid tractor)
-When you is trying to put the front end together with the rear end, you have to turn the flywheel alitle bit for the first pinaxle into the disk, then for the second pinaxle you have to turn the pto behind the tractor alitle bit around so the second pinaxle also fit into the disks. The job have to be done in exact paralell centre-level too.

if you not have your,s tractor on wheel,s you have to use some motor crane.
Good luck with the job.

mikkel