Caramel oil

[DanielV]

Guys,

drained the oil in the back end with the drain plug just behind the bell housing oil is a caramel colour and very thick, I did not notice any metal chunks although the inside of the plug did have some very fine metal dust. the question is should I remove the top under the seat to gain access and clean out the rear and filters?? how heavy is the top??

my motor has droped oil pressure bad so it is in the shed and I hope to rebuild in a month or so after I have finished rebuilding the slasher, although I do plan a full strip clean rebuild and paint this will not be for some months so my plan at the moment is re-build the slasher motor and sort everything so she is ready for work save the money for a big strip split and clean.

also I have a handbrake re-build kit however the pin for the lever is rusted in solid and I will have to remove the lever to drill this out, is the only way to remove the back wheel and slip it off?

Thanks

[tom lad]

i guess the short answer is yes lift off the lift cover and clean out the housing as best u can
the lift cover is bloomin heavy , i tink best lifted with a hoist / block un tackle, use the bolts / studs for the seat fixing point.
when i first did mine i just lifted it my self but thats a bad plan , now i use my block un tackle , chain hoist , far to easy to brake some think i.e ur back , tryna do it with brute force .
there r two drain plugs for the seperate gear box , back axle , the one nearer the bell housing is for the gearbox , the next one is for the hydraulics / back axle .
surely if u get even a small amount of muck out then its better than it was before ?, but the oil to re fill is expensive so maybe do the job once properly ??

two oil filling plugs , g box one by the gear levers , hydaulic one behind the seat near the top link mount , both same size. use same oil in both .

i'd try some heat on a stuck/ siezed pin .heat the outer not the pin , it should expand un let u tap out the pin , or thats the plan
tom

[60dexta]

Guys,

drained the oil in the back end with the drain plug just behind the bell housing oil is a caramel colour and very thick, I did not notice any metal chunks although the inside of the plug did have some very fine metal dust. the question is should I remove the top under the seat to gain access and clean out the rear and filters?? how heavy is the top??

my motor has droped oil pressure bad so it is in the shed and I hope to rebuild in a month or so after I have finished rebuilding the slasher, although I do plan a full strip clean rebuild and paint this will not be for some months so my plan at the moment is re-build the slasher motor and sort everything so she is ready for work save the money for a big strip split and clean.

also I have a handbrake re-build kit however the pin for the lever is rusted in solid and I will have to remove the lever to drill this out, is the only way to remove the back wheel and slip it off?

Thanks

Hi,
If the drain plug is the one behind the bellhousing that would be the gearbox oil. The oil sounds way too thick. The manual shows the same oil engine, gearbox and back end.
The back end drain plug is just behind the handbrake cross shaft. You could not see it at all on mine until I scraped off all the muck.
The rear cover and link arms are a fairly heavy and awkward lump. If you can make use of a winch I would use it.
Rob

[DanielV]

any advice on what to use to clean the inside with? I expect that I will not be able to get in enought to clean with a rag even with the top off?

[Brian]

You can try the trick of mixing about two gallons of Kerosene, not diesel which will affect the internal "O" rings, with around a gallon of oil. Put the mixture in both the gearbox and the rear axle and run the tractor around for a couple of hours under no load. Then drain.

It will not be perfect but it was the way Ford told us to do it in service.

[DanielV]

I droped the very back of the tractor the other day and noticed that the oil was fine??
I thought that the gearbox and rear end were all the same system??

is it safe to leave the kerosene and oil in the system for a while? I dont have time to run it arround for a few hours yet I have to pick up a very heavy slasher and move it out of the shed for a few days than move it back in to continue working, wondering how long I could leave the mix in for without problems? I have no plan to use it for a while and I already have replacement oil just dont want to waste it as it is very expensive.

Thanks

[60dexta]

I droped the very back of the tractor the other day and noticed that the oil was fine??
I thought that the gearbox and rear end were all the same system??

is it safe to leave the kerosene and oil in the system for a while? I dont have time to run it arround for a few hours yet I have to pick up a very heavy slasher and move it out of the shed for a few days than move it back in to continue working, wondering how long I could leave the mix in for without problems? I have no plan to use it for a while and I already have replacement oil just dont want to waste it as it is very expensive.

Thanks

The gearbox and the back end run in separate lots of oil.
The back end oil also goes through the hydraulics.

and yes they do hold a lot of oil. I got mine fairly cheaply but it was still £140ish for 54 litres. I keep finding new places to put the oil...back end, gearbox, engine, air filter, injector pump, steering box. I have not found anywhere else that needs it yet.

Rob