heater button

[tom lad]

hi
my heater button is letting about 6 volts though it , the two contacts on the back
i've stripped it down the back plate is clean/dry but connected to a battery in series volt meter reads 5.5 - 6.5 volts ??? button released ( back plate fully off )

were should i be buying new parts ? local lucas supplyer never seen one b4 ,
the ignition switch i recently bought from A........ was poor quality , but the lucas man seemed to think thats how things are now ???

read a post on here about the button and rubber cover recently but i cant find it .

removed heater glows red . dont think its worked fitted to tractor for some time , but always been able to start and use her with out it
only found these problems trying to fit the new ing. switch .

tom

[Bensdexta]

Tom,
Have you checked the resistance of your heater switch when open & closed? You'll need to remove it from the dash first. Of course, when open (button released) it should be infinity Ohms (ie open circuit); when closed (button pressed) it should be zero. So long as your switch passes these simple tests it should be OK.

A couple of yrs ago there was a prob with the usual suppliers with shoddy switches in which one of the terminals on the back was shorted with the back plate, so I sent mine back and waited over 6months till they got a new batch of servicable ones. There's a post about it here somewhere.

Ref ignition switches: Yes the switches on early Dextas with integral light/ignition key were/are a constant source of trouble since the rain runs in and corrodes the switch. That's what happened on our Dex over 30 yrs ago.

Later Dexs/Supers, from ~1962 have separate light switch with the key switch moved to the RH side of the lower dash. So thats what I've done; got a 2nd hand original Super D light-only switch for the hole lower left of dash. But I got a Hobbs/Honeywell key switch, which fits great in the Super D position. This is a much better engineered switch c/w rubber cover. A bonus is that it has a coded key unlike the standard tractor keys which are all the same - how secure is that!!

There's a thread about the switch here: http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?

[Bensdexta]

Duplicate post deleted.

[tom lad]

thanks for advice ben
my s dexta has the light switch / seperate ing. key near the starter lever , same key barrel ect. as a ted -20

were did u buy you're button from ?

[Bensdexta]

Tom,
Have you checked the resistance of your heater switch when open & closed? You'll need to remove it from the dash first. Of course, when open (button released) it should be infinity Ohms (ie open circuit); when closed (button pressed) it should be zero. So long as your switch passes these simple tests it should be OK.

A couple of yrs ago there was a prob with the usual suppliers with shoddy switches in which one of the terminals on the back was shorted with the back plate, so I sent mine back and waited over 6months till they got a new batch of servicable ones. There's a post about it here somewhere.

Ref ignition switches: Yes the switches on early Dextas with integral light/ignition key were/are a constant source of trouble since the rain runs in and corrodes the switch. That's what happened on our Dex over 30 yrs ago.

Later Dexs/Supers, from ~1962 have separate light switch with the key switch moved to the RH side of the lower dash. So thats what I've done; got a 2nd hand original Super D light-only switch for the hole lower left of dash. But I got a Hobbs/Honeywell key switch, which fits great in the Super D position. This is a much better engineered switch c/w rubber cover. A bonus is that it has a coded key unlike the standard tractor keys which are all the same - how secure is that!!

There's a thread about the switch here: http://www.fordsontractorpages.nl/phpbb ... 22&p=10197

Edit: I got my heater switch from Southern Counties. However, I believe there is only one manufacturer, so prob doesn't make much difference where you get it - just test it before you install it. Remember that for most of these repro parts, we are the Quality Control Dept!

[tom lad]

left the back plate in the warm near the wood stove , re tested on the 12 v battery , it was showing 1 un a bit v across the poles ,
re assembled and heater is glowing after 6 seconds ish so i might just bung it back on ?
had the tractor for years never needed the heater yet , but also never needed the tractor on a cold day

[ol'Blue]

I also had the same issues with my heater switch. I took it apart and the contacts were not only undersized for the current needed, but burnt. A new switch over here in Ohio was 38 bucks plus shipping. The picture below shows how I fitted a heavy duty starter switch from Advance Auto. These are 5 bucks and good for 20 amps. From the outside you cant see the difference.




Thanks for a great forum. This is actually my first post, more to come.....

dave