rear main seal replacement

[dan_d]

Hi,
Just recently got a "new-to-me" Dexta (or 3/4 of one anyways... but that's another story! ) and she leaks a bit of oil, more so when going uphill... I suspect this is the rear main seal? At first glance, it doesn't look *horribly* difficult to get the engine off, but has anyone here done it before and have some advice and/or time estimates for a novice tractor repairman? I'm not afraid of doing the work myself (unless special tools are required?) but given that I don't do this too often it'd probably be pretty slow going!

Thanks a bunch,
Dan

[Brian]

Dan,

Welcome to the board, you will find lots of information to help you in the archives. The Dexta and Major ranges are some of the simplest tractors to work on it is possible to get.

If you are going to replace your engine rear main oil seal then it is obvious that you are going to split the tractor at the clutch housing. There are no problems here but make sure you are on a level surface. You will need to support the back of the engine to move it away from the gearbox. A pallet truck or overhead lift is best. If you use a trolley jack the engine could fall off. You will also need to block the clutch housing securely.

There are two types of clutch in a Dexta, live and single. With the live clutch there are two splines to line up when you put her back together. You will need to put her in gear and turn the engine to get the main box spline engaged, then I usually put the PTO in gear and turn this to get that one lined up.

If you are doing it on your own, two long bolts may be used to hold the two halves together when you wriggle her back together. Note I said "hold" not "draw"!!! Attempts to draw the two halves together with bolts usually end with a large expenditure for a complete new clutch. Take your time , wriggle and ease, it will go together eventually.

The single clutch is far easier.

You will have to remove the fly wheel. This is bl**dy heavy if it drops on your toe. It is possible to get it back in the wrong place when refitting. This will not affect the running of the engine but will make life very interesting if you have to time her in the future. The timing marks are on the flywheel.

Think that is most of the pitfalls. The seal itself is a rope type seal in an aluminium housing that bolts on to the block.

[dexta4]

i was always told to soak the new seal in oil for 24hrs before fitting? not sure if this is a myth or not but did it with mine and they've been ok since

[dan_d]

Thanks for the tips! I have some steering/front axle problems which I need to deal with first, but this is definitely on the to-do list

Dan

[Dunggatherer]

You might want to invest in one of those "ball joint separators".
I always prefer them over a "pickle fork" or just hammering.
The first method usually ruins the rubber seal,the second kills the thread,and if you really have a bad day you may even break a steering arm.
The ball joint separator treats the parts more friendly,and you can probably get one for some 10 dollars.

Good luck.
Rob.

[dan_d]

You might want to invest in one of those "ball joint separators".
I always prefer them over a "pickle fork" or just hammering.
The first method usually ruins the rubber seal,the second kills the thread,and if you really have a bad day you may even break a steering arm.
The ball joint separator treats the parts more friendly,and you can probably get one for some 10 dollars.

Good luck.
Rob.

Hehe, as "luck" would have it, all of the above are already broken (rubber seal, threads, steering arm) Actually the 2 front ball joints just fell out of their sockets when i started taking things apart!
I was going to start a new thread on it, but since i have already sorted things out (therefore no questions to ask! ), the 5sec story is that I bought the tractor knowing it had somewhat wonky steering and the wrong front axles, but it worked well enough anyways... until I broke the steering arm while piling manure! After some research I discovered the axles (and pretty much teh entire front end!) were actually from a high-crop ford tractor (601 offset i think is what the guy at the shop said), and decided that i'd be better off spending a bit of extra money getting the proper front end from a wreckers instead of constantly dealing with the existing "hack job". So i'll be buying all new steering arms, drag links and ends, and front axles/spindles and wheel bearings. Hopefully with the correct pieces I can get the steering fixed up enough so that the steering arms aren't stressed when I bump into stuff! (i think my alignment was out due to the sloppiness in the bushings/bearings/etc and when i hit the manure the front wheels did the "splits" edit: oh, and the one drag link was welded too... )

Ok, not quite 5sec version... maybe 25

Cheers,
Dan