PTO problem? Gearbox noise Super major 1963

[Aleš63]

Hi thanks so much for your valuable advice! I'm currently waiting for a friend to have time to disassemble the tractor in his workshop. I took the engine cap off today and there was emulsion so I'd say my coolant is going into the oil. And I have one more question for you guys, I have a Seal leak at the decompressor lever. Do you know where to buy it? Or alternatively what are the dimensions ? I'd try to get one here. Unfortunately I'm from Europe and I only found it on order from America I think. Unfortunately, my Major has more problems that I have to solve... Once I get the gearbox sorted out I'll have to find out why my tractor won't keep revving... All of a sudden the engine starts revving itself up and then keeps revving at a higher speed. I have noticed that when it is cold, the revs hold normally for a while, but when I start doing something with it, the revs are still high and sometimes low again, and then the engine stops on its own. It just has an idle problem... I have a complete pump and injector repair kit so I'll probably take it to an injector pump shop. Thanks again for your valuable advice.

[Billy26F5]

That does look like coolant in oil, various things can leak the best test is to pressurise the coolant and look underneath with the sump off to see where it leaks. Fixing it will at least require a new head gasket, but could require a full overhaul. As for the decompressor seal go to a seal factor with the old seal, he'll make you a new one of high quality and with the correct sizes. I'm not aware of these seals being available. I recommend you service the injector pump (assume it's a minimec), and check for binding in the rack, any binding will cause issues with operation. If it doesn't improve easily you'll need to take it apart for a clean. Ensure no dirt of any kind gets in.
Sandy

[Aleš63]

Hi guys today I disassembled and then reassembled the entire transmission I recently purchased. The transmission including the bearings looks to be in perfect condition. I then opened up the side section on the tractor to see if I could see any problem in the transmission that is currently in the tractor. I tried moving the gears to see if I could feel any play and visually checked the bearings but found nothing. Overall I think the problem is on the side where the PTO is located.But I found a large amount of metal particles in the other part but as I said visually I didn't see anything or I am blind but I will add some pictures here and maybe you more experienced people will see the problem right away.However, I hope to replace the gearbox in two weeks and find out more. I have one more question for you and that is about the speedometer cable and the minimac pump. Unfortunately my speedometer is not working and probably because the connector in the fuel pump is destroyed. Is there an in between piece and or does the square part of the cable stick right into the camshaft?The last two pictures are the fuel pump speedometer cable connector. Thanks a lot for the help

[Billy26F5]

The short answer on the tachometer is new camshaft. A big job which requires full phasing and calibration. As for the PTO issue, the metal fragments are a concern, and you'll need to remove those before reassembly. The condition of several gears is a bit doubtful with rust perhaps contributing to trouble (but not significantly). Having said that, I don't think that is the problem, I still think you have a poor bearing somewhere, probably one of the ones that are more difficult to see without dismantling. After the swap you should see what's happening, hopefully find something in the gearbox you just removed. I recommend you strip it to check that and see what you find, possibly before reassembly, just in case.
Sandy

[Old Hywel]

Rather than replace the injection pump, there’s probably some type of metal filler available to build up the square drive. Make sure that neither cable nor instrument are seized before refitting.
When the tacho stopped working on a Super Major, I jammed small slivers of wood around the worn square as a temporary measure. It lasted for years.

[Billy26F5]

Davie has the same treatment but with metal, although it's the cable that's in trouble, and I'm hoping to get one some time. As for Ales' pump the squared part is actually broken off, which is why it most likely requires a new camshaft as I struggle to see an easy fix without damage. The squared part sticks out some 3/4" from the rear cover, the pics are with the adaptor removed showing the rear seal.
Sandy

[Aleš63]

Hi, thanks a lot for your advice I would like to replace the gearbox this weekend. Hopefully, the spare parts I need will arrive by the weekend. I have a question about the clutch. I want to check the clutch and, if it is faulty, replace the drive plate, PTO plate, and pilot bearing.
What should the gap between the clutch fingers be? I couldn't find any dimensions anywhere.I have a dual clutch. Thank you Aleš

[Billy26F5]

The PTO levers should be 0.62" behind the transmission levers, but both must be set correctly. Unfortunately there's no true guide to this as the live clutch tool is all that Ford refer to, so I would just make sure that the 0.62" step is there and see how it does, no adjustment is normally done in service until new plates are fitted so you should be ok. There is a drawing that I posted with approximate sizes but it didn't work well, so just leave it as it should be reasonable. What is important is that all three levers for both plates are set the same, the PTO 0.62" behind. If you have a bronze pilot bearing (E1ADDN-7600, fitted from March 61) I recommend you don't, they have a reputation for being very good. The ball bearing E1ADKN-7600A fitted until then is well worth replacing.
Sandy

[Aleš63]

Hi, thanks a lot for the advice. Today, I came across a website in Germany where I sometimes order spare parts for instructions on how to adjust a double clutch. I wrote an email to the gentleman asking if this was also how to adjust the clutch on a Major, and he said yes. I'm attaching the link. It's all in German, but Google Translate is a good helper. ))

https://www.petrolini.de/technik/

[Billy26F5]

Both clutches are quite similar, although the Dexta one doesn't suffer the cover failures that Major ones do. Much of the clutch tool is the same, so you can see why the adjustment will be similar. Make sure the levers don't bottom before the clutch pedal does, or you'll be going back in again far too soon.
Sandy

[Aleš63]

Hey guys, so today I finally separated the engine from the transmission. Unfortunately, I won't be able to do much more this weekend... So I'll continue again next weekend. Aleš

[Hair Bear]

Just an observation, have you got any form of wedges each side between the front axle and the engine frame?

[Aleš63]

Hi, I'm not sure what exactly you mean? Aleš

[Hair Bear]

A wooden wedge or similar each side of the engine between the bolster and the front axle to stop the engine tipping over sideways while it's not attached to the gearbox.

[Billy26F5]

That all looks pretty good, as Rob and I said you need some wedges between the front axle beam and front casting to hold it steady. Clutch looks good, a good clean in the bell housing is worth doing before taking the gearbox out, also, you don't need the PTO casting out before removing the engine, you will for the gearbox. You also need to remove the selector plate, belt pulley cover and also the high low selector link, an awkward job, before the gearbox comes off.
Sandy

[Aleš63]

Hi guys, so today I took out the gearbox, but I haven't completely dismantled it yet. I would say that the handbrake mechanism is destroyed and the gear wheel doesn't look good either... But the good news is that I found a brand new gear wheel for about €45 on the website where I order spare parts. I have to buy it because it's not even on the transmission I recently bought. The rods on which the handbrake plates are mounted are also bent, and one even has a crack. Well, I found more cracks... Overall, it seems to me that the gearbox that is currently in the tractor looks much worse than the gearbox I recently bought and plan to install in the tractor. I have one question for you: under one gear wheel, there is a lock nut that was not properly tightened on either gearbox. Is there a special wrench, or is this nut easy to tighten? I am attaching some photos here, and tomorrow I will take more detailed pictures. Before the gear wheel for the handbrake arrives, I will work on the clutch, for which I have already received all the parts, including the bearings. Well, originally I just wanted to fix a few things on the tractor, and now it looks like everything on the tractor will be fixed in a moment I have already completely repaired the front axle, including all bearings and seals, and the entire steering system. I also replaced the bearings on the rear axle, including the seals, and replaced all the hydraulic seals, including the hydraulic piston seal... And I only wanted to do a few repairs Well, hopefully there will be time for the engine in the winter, and hopefully I'll completely repaint it next year. My girlfriend is already complaining that I spend more time with my father and the tractor than with her, so I'll have to take a break from repairing my Major I would appreciate any advice, especially regarding the nut in the transmission. Thanks, Aleš

And before I forget, I wanted to say that visually, the bearings don't look too bad, at least the ones I've seen so far. Over the weekend, I hope to take apart the original transmission and hopefully find something. I think most of the metal fragments were from the handbrake... Well, I hope that when I replace the transmission and turn on the PTO, I won't hear the same sound but on the other hand, my dad and I will have something to do again