Drag link removal

[Nick]

I am now trying to remove the drag link, as it is bent at about a 30 degree angle, almost like its been picked up by it sometime! I take it they werent supposed to be bent on some models?
Anyway, ive got both nuts undone, but of course like everything else on this tractor, they will not budge. I have left the nuts on so when i hit them, it doesnt knacker the threads.
Will it hurt them to heat them up with the gas torch to get them to move?

[Pavel]

Not a good idea to use flame to heat them up -- unless you are going to replace the whole shebang. There are grease seals inside.
If you are going to hammer them out, make sure the drop arms are supported on something solid otherwise they will ineffectively absorb the hammer blows or even break.
Pavel.

[Timeee]

Don't hit the taper pins, even with the nuts on, they seldom come out with this line of attack. Hit the arm that surrounds the pin at right angles to the pin. ie hit towards where the arm pivots. The shock of the blow goes through the material and meets the taper of the pin at an angle which forces it up. Alternatively, get a really good joint splitter. If you cannot get a good end-on hit, hold a large, solid hammer (sledge hammer if you can get access) against one side and hit the arm on the opposite side to it. Wear gloves and mind your leg! Tim

[Dandy Dave]

Don't hit the taper pins, even with the nuts on, they seldom come out with this line of attack. Hit the arm that surrounds the pin at right angles to the pin. ie hit towards where the arm pivots. The shock of the blow goes through the material and meets the taper of the pin at an angle which forces it up. Alternatively, get a really good joint splitter. If you cannot get a good end-on hit, hold a large, solid hammer (sledge hammer if you can get access) against one side and hit the arm on the opposite side to it. Wear gloves and mind your leg! Tim

The hammer trick is the same way I have done it for many years. Works about 90 percent of the time without having to use a pickle fork which will damage the seals. Dandy Dave!

[super6954]

The hammer trick is the same way I have done it for many years. Works about 90 percent of the time without having to use a pickle fork which will damage the seals. Dandy Dave![/quote]

Ive never owned a pickle fork on the grounds that the 3 I have borrowed from guys or used at one time or another where useless and bent or broke. "Maybe snap off tool manufacturing" tools are not as good as snap on .
There is a family history dating back to the invention of the taper steering joint of using 2 Hammers and as far as I know it has never failed
When I went through college we had to split a tractor and the power unit shop never had a fork so I was beating on the steering arm with the hammer trick. The lecturer came over and point blank told me go get the fork from the ag shop. well long story short I got it hit the thing 4 times broke it and then pointed this out to him and then removed the joint with 2 hammers. some times the right way is not always the best way He was not impressed
Regards Robert

[Pavel]

Bu...r! And there's me been using a ball joint splitter for decades. Perhaps they don't nowadays make them as they used to.
Pavel.

[Dandy Dave]

I don't use mine often, But they are old and have stood the test of time. Dandy Dave!