Sump radius pin

[AdrianNPMajor]

I am trying to remove the front axle radius pin located under the sump. It won't budge. Any tips on how to remove it?

Many thanks.

Adrian

[henk]

Gently hit it with a hammer to brake the dust and rust.

[R W]

If you have tried all the usual ways and they havn't worked , weld something suitable to the pin that will allow you to use a reasonable amount of force,
remembering that the sump is cast .
Have never found one to be a problem so far, have mostly got them with a pair of multi grips and a hammer.

[AdrianNPMajor]

Thanks Henk and RW.

Is it possible that a step has worn into the pin, causing it to foul on the lip of the hole in the sump casting?

Having asked that question, I have to say that I haven't tried very hard to remove it, for fear of cracking the casting. Re welding a bar onto the end of the pin, could I weld two nuts onto the bar and press it out with two bolts pushing against the webs either side of the pin?

Adrian

[Timeee]

Presumably the pin is worn and is "crankshafted" in the housing, so it is butting up against the edges of the housing, as you try and knock it out. I usually try and turn the pin to get a less worn area before attempting to knock it out. Also try and relieve all weight on it by supporting the A frame as best you can. The heat from tacking something onto the pin is good, as suggested above. I seem to remember using a very thin (stainless steel) cutting disc on an angle grinder to cut through the pin and get the A frame out of the way on one really difficult case and to then work on the remains of the pin, using a drill and power file, but there is not always enough room (wear) to get at the pin........I think that was on a Major. It may come down to what to "sacrifice" first. Good luck and don't hit it too hard. Too hard is when you smash something, not hard enough is when it doesn't budge!

[AdrianNPMajor]

Hi Timee

Thanks for your response. Could you help me think this through? If I weld a nut on the end of the pin, so that I can rotate it with a spanner, would the 'crankshaft' effect be negated if I turn the pin through 90 or 180 degrees?

Adrian

[Timeee]

I would expect wear at the top and the bottom of the pin depending on which part is in which component (sump or A Frame). So I would recommend going 90, because the "flats"would then be on the side, less-worn parts.

[AdrianNPMajor]

Makes sense. Thanks.

[Pavel]

There has been a very recent post about this problem -- it may be of some help to you.
As an addition to Timeee's helpful suggestion:
Having welded your rod/bar to the pin, try twisting it whilst slowly jacking the frame up. It will at some stage feel loose when the weight of the tractor is removed -- but too far and the weight of the suspension will grip it again. Provided your jack doesn't 'creep' you should be able to firmly tap it whilst slowly twisting and find a release point.
The important point is not to get carried away with the hammer and therefore create a burr on the end of the pin. If this were to happen you will have to go through the same procedure again -- but from the other end.
Pavel

[AdrianNPMajor]

Many thanks, Pavel. I'm beginning to get a good picture in my head as to how to proceed.

[Kim]

Remember that a good soaking in a high quality penetrating oil is primary to tackling this project!

[AdrianNPMajor]

Sound advice. Thanks Kim.