electronic regulator

[peter2]

Hi,

my Super Major has a Lucas dynamo with an external mechanical regulator (Lucas RB108 or similar). I cleaned and adjusted the regulator during restauration, but actually the output current is slightly too high and I have to adjust the regulator again. Adjusting the regulator depends on a lot of parameters (temperature, filling condition of the battery etc.) and is a bit tricky sometimes, so I'm looking for an electronic regulator for the Lucas dynamo.

I don't want to buy an alternator, because it's not original and the output of my dynamo is nearly enough for running with all lights on (11A output vs. 12A load).

Is there any expirience with electronic regulators? Any advice what to buy (or not to buy)? Or build one myself?
My Super Major runs on negative earth already.

Peter

[oehrick]

Hi Peter,

My regulator is also knacked and I had been looking about for a circuit diagram to make an external electronic unit, however I was given a NOS Lucas unit by a local supplier as it had a dented case so went no further, nor have I fitted the new one yet, (after start up I hook the field stud to the live for a few minutes with a croc clip to bump up the charge for a restart if needed. )

There are several home brew designs about if you google among the vintage car forums etc. there are also numerous ready made units, I saved the datasheet for one, the DVR2 made (or at least sold) by this outfit :-

Dynamo Regulators Ltd 7 Oldenburg, Fareham, Hants PO15 7EJ, UK Reg. No. 07295701
Tel +44 (0)1489 880552 http://www.dynamoregulators.com/ dvr@dynamoregulators.com

The datasheet on their website.

Not fitted one, not traded or connected with the company

HTH and would be interested to hear the results if you go this route.

[peter2]

Hi Rick,

I saw that website already, I think, I'll try one of them.

Thanks,
Peter

[Pavel]

Since, Peter, you are interested in 'originality' you might like to also look at the website of 'Classic Dynamo & Regulator Conversions' in the UK. They are more expensive than the one Ricky mentioned, but these people fit the electronics inside your existing regulator.
There is also a mob in the US of A doing the same thing -- 'Dynamo Regulator / Clover Systems.'

Pavel

[peter2]

Hi Pavel,

I already got an old defective regulator from my parts dealer to empty out the box an insert the electronic parts.
I think, I can do this conversion myself.

Peter

[peter2]

Hi,

update: I got my electronic regulator from http://www.dynamoregulators.com. Cost in Germany including shipment is about 99 Euro (75 Pound).

Here it is:


I dismantled an old Lucas regulator RB108:


Next was cut/desolder the bobbins, on the right is the new regulator:


The new regulator brings a adhesive thermal bonding pad, but I don't trust the adhesive, so I screwed it to the cover:


The two screws are the only difference to the original look.

This is the look inside:


I soldered the wires to the correct pins of the contact plate and put all together in the Lucas cover. The contacts are the same as the old regulator, so it was plug and play at the tractor. Only the mounting differed, but two small brackets solved that.

Result: No charge at 700rpm, but 5A at 800rpm and 11A at 900rpm. Much more than the mechanical regulator. Looks good.

The whole conversion took about 3 hours.

Peter

[oehrick]

Thanks for that Peter, looks like a nice straight conversion

Richard

[BearCreek Majors]

That's a slick little setup Peter!

Pat

[Pavel]

A very professional looking job, Peter.
And thanks for the first class pics and comments -- worthy of the archives.

Pavel

[henk]

Nice job indeed.
Could this setup also be used on the New and Power Major serie?, They use a 5 connector regulator that needs to be adjusted by hand.
And how would the setup be with one connector less?

[peter2]

Hi Henk,

if you look on the top of your regulator, there is a description of the ports. As far as I can see on similar pictures the ports are A-A-F-D-E. On the four port regulator it reads D-E-A-F.

D goes to dynamo (the big port there),
E is earth,
A goes to amperemeter (and so to the rest of the electrics) and
F is the connector for the field in the dynamo (smaller port).

I think the only difference is the two A ports which must be internally connected.

Peter

[guduell]

This looks nice! But why did you order dvr3 and not dvr2? According to the specification the dvr2 handles 12amp. On the other hand the introdiction to dvr3 say it is for tractors. Before your installation post i was about to order the dvr2...

[peter2]

Hi guduell,

the dvr2 seems to be for motorcycles an even if it can handle 12amp, it will work always on his limit. I think that's the reason, why the dvr3 is announced for tractors. Ask the manufacturer via email, he can explain the reasons.
I was unsure to choose the 11amp or 22amp version. He explained to me, that the 11amp version with an 11amp dynamo keeps the dynamo from getting to hot.

Mike Hutchings from Dynamo Regulators Ltd wrote:

The 11 Amp dynamo is best used with a regulator which does not allow more than that maximum current to be drawn. This protects the dynamo from overheating and possibly melting the internal solder connections.

Peter

[guduell]

Thank you very much!
It will be a christmas gift to myself.